On the wave

Faa he’e ra are

I look for a beautiful wave lying face downwards on my board. I wait for the biggest in the hopes to get the most out of it and give me several seconds more of surfing. I swim toward this growing wave and I can feel its power drawing me towards it. Only yards away from the wave, I turn my back and take the challenge. There is only one way to go from here…no turning back.

As I accelerate my crawl towards it, I can feel that the wave catch up to me and lift me. I sense the downwards phase approaching. It is the time to push up dynamically with my hands to stand up on the board in the right direction. Now the fun begins.

Straightening up, I put my right leg in front of the board and my left leg in the back. Feeling a bit goofy in this position, I keep a bent-over position to absorb the wave’s movement and for better stability. I use my arms to maintain balance and change the direction.

This left wave even offers me a tube. The tube is a situation where the surfer can disappear in the wave, covered by the surging water. There are many feeling in this instant; the slide, the wave’s blow, the liquid falling around me. I draw my own trajectory on the wave to make the slide longer.

The tube is the most intensive moment that you can live on your board. Some surfers explain that it is like reach the nirvana of surfing…

Then you have just to put theory into practice, like numerous of polynesians that you can admire in world-famous spots as Teahupoo (Tahiti) or Haapiti (Moorea) .

* Do not hesitate to consult the glossary of surfing